A portrait of a Jacobean noblewoman was given fuller lips at a later date, proving that admiration for a plumper pout did not start with Kylie Jenner, English Heritage has said.
A painting in the charity’s collection of renowned Jacobean beauty Diana Cecil, the great-granddaughter of one of Elizabeth I’s closest friends, underwent conservation work revealing that her lips were overpainted at a much later date to make them appear fuller, as well as overpainting on her hairline to make her forehead seem smaller.
The painting has now been restored to its original appearance and will go on display at Kenwood, London, at the end of November.
The conservation work also revealed that the date of the portrait was 1634, while it had previously been thought to be 1638, and made visible the artist’s signature, Cornelius Johnson.
Diana Cecil, who married the Earl of Oxford and later the first Earl of Elgin, was known as a beauty in her day and was painted by a number of influential portrait artists, such as William Larkin, the Flemish artists Paul van Somer and Anthony van Dyck, and Cornelius Johnson.
Alice Tate-Harte, a collections conservator at English Heritage, said: “As a paintings conservator I am often amazed by the vivid and rich colours that reveal themselves as I remove old, yellowing varnish from portraits, but finding out Diana’s features had been changed so much was certainly a surprise!
“While the original reason for overpainting could have been to cover damage from the portrait being rolled, the restorer certainly added their own preferences to ‘sweeten’ her face. I hope I’ve done Diana justice by removing those additions and presenting her natural face to the world.”
Kenwood is home to two portraits of Diana Cecil – one painted by William Larkin when she was about 15, and the work by Cornelius Johnson when she was around 31.
Johnson has portrayed the older Diana in a fashionable blue satin bodice and full skirt, whereas the earlier portrait emphasises understated clothing according to the fashions of the time.
Diana came from a powerful noble family and married Henry de Vere, 18th Earl of Oxford, who died a year later, and then Lord Thomas Bruce in 1629, later 1st Earl of Elgin.
